Zov: Recipes and Memories from the Heart Review

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(More customer reviews)From the Orange County Register
May 19, 2005
by Judy Bart Kancigor, author of Cooking Jewish: 532 Great Recipes from the Rabinowitz Family
Are your seat belts securely fastened and your tray tables in their upright and locked position? Hang on. We're taking a little journey.
Our tour guide is none other than Zov Karamardian, Orange County's own national treasure and award winning restaurateur. Zov's Bistro in Tustin, serving contemporary eastern Mediterranean cuisine, has since 1987 been one of the most popular and highly rated restaurants in the county.
And now Zov has written a cookbook - "Zov: Recipes and Memories from the Heart" (Zov's Publishing) - taking us along for the ride, from her childhood in the Middle East to her world travels, as each memory inspires her to create a dish. Hummus from her family's stay in Beirut when she was 11. Jasmine Rice Pudding from the paddies she visited on a culinary tour of Vietnam in 2000. Feta for her Angel Hair Pasta inspired by childhood memories of her Syrian grandmother ripening goat cheese in buried pots. Potato Salad from her school days in Baghdad, where it was served with amba (pickled mango chutney) in a sandwich called Piaz.
"Whoever graduated from that school, they talk about that sandwich," Zov told me. "It's one of those kid things that people love, like French fries here. We used to fight in that line to get that sandwich. If my mom made it we wouldn't eat it. It's the place and the environment that created that sandwich."
And it's the place and environment that creates the mental picture, through Zov's evocative prose, that makes you want to head straight for the kitchen to cook. We can see the bustling souks, smell the fresh mint, hear the crackle of roasting peppers.
"I take a canvas and I paint it," said Zov. "I want the readers to really salivate when they visualize the dish. I want them there with me. Every recipe has a photo. People eat with their eyes first, so it's going to tantalize their senses first and then their palate."
After years of responding to customers' queries for recipes, Zov finally decided to document them in a book. "People really wanted those recipes," she told me. "They kept asking me all the time, `Can I have the Golden Lentil Soup recipe?' `Can I have that salad dressing?' Finally I decided to gather them all in one place."
While many of the recipes border on the exotic - Grilled Shrimp with Mint and Cilantro Pesto, Sumac-Coated Chicken Kabob - with Zov as teacher, the preparations are not daunting.
"My philosophy is convenience, quality and healthy ingredients and quick preparation," she said. "We're all busy, so there is really little time left to cook and shop. All the ingredients in the book are available in any market, except for some spices which you can easily find in a Middle Eastern market or health food store."
Experienced and new cooks alike will appreciate the informative notes accompanying the recipes. "Don't be intimidated by the recipe or afraid to add what you like," Zov advised. "The recipe is a guideline, but it's a teaching tool too. I don't think there's anything in the recipe that you're going to need to know that I don't mention: technique, ingredients, preparation. It's all there. If you don't know how to cook now, by the time you finish cooking from this book, you will know how to cook. "
ZOV'S FAVORITE POTATO SALAD
from "Zov: Recipes and Memories from the Heart"
2 pounds small red-skinned potatoes, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon crushed dried mint
1/3 cup finely chopped green onions
1/3 cup finely chopped red onion
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish
Fill a large pot with 2 inches of water. Place a steamer basket in the pot, cover and bring water to a boil. Place potatoes in basket and steam until just tender, stirring after first 4 minutes, about 8 minutes total. Remove potatoes from pot. Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice, oil, 2 1/2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper, and dried mint in a large bowl to blend. Add drained hot potatoes and toss to coat. Add green onions, red onions and chopped fresh mint. Toss gently to combine. Set aside until room temperature, tossing occasionally. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs and serve. Serves 4 to 6

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